Wood Stove Pipe Kits: Through the Wall or Through the Roof?
Updated September 2026
A wood stove pipe kit is not a chimney kit. That single misunderstanding is behind most of the disappointment people report after ordering one. A kit covers the connector run — the black pipe you can see, from the stove's flue collar to the point where it enters a wall or ceiling. Everything past that point is Class A insulated chimney, and it is a separate purchase.
Below is what each kit contains, how to choose between a through-the-wall and a through-the-roof route, and an honest list of what you will still need to buy. If you already know your route, go straight to our wood stove pipe kits. We sell the connector pipe and the Class A chimney that continues from it, including complete through-the-ceiling and through-the-wall Class A kits.
The four kits, and which one you need
Every kit we stock is 6" — the flue collar size on every Drolet and Englander wood stove we sell. The choice comes down to two questions: which way does the pipe leave the room, and how much clearance do you have around it.
| Kit | Route | Pipe | Clearance | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SP00370 — To The Ceiling | Straight up, through the roof | Single wall | 18" | $149 |
| VODBKTC06 — To-The-Ceiling | Straight up, through the roof | Double wall | 6" | $219 |
| SP00360 — To The Wall | Out through an exterior wall | Single wall | 18" | $229 |
| VODBKTW06 — To-The-Wall | Out through an exterior wall | Double wall | 6" | $359 |
The through-the-wall kits cost more because the run is longer and needs a tee at the exit point rather than a straight rise. That price gap widens once you add the Class A chimney, which has to climb the outside of the house rather than passing through an attic.
Go up if the house lets you
A vertical flue is the better installation in almost every measurable way, and it is cheaper. Hot flue gas rises on its own, so a straight run drafts naturally, stays warm between reloads, and lays down less creosote. There is no elbow to slow the flow and nowhere for a plug of soot to sit. For a line-by-line budget, see our wood burning stove installation cost breakdown.
The horizontal exit exists to solve a problem: a cathedral ceiling with no attic to pass through, a bedroom directly above the stove, a finished second storey you do not want to cut into, or a stove already sitting against an outside wall. In those cases the pipe turns 90 degrees, exits through the wall, and the chimney climbs the outside of the house.
The trade is real. An exterior chimney runs cold between fires, and a cold chimney drafts badly — which is why some through-the-wall installs are hard to light on a still, freezing morning and want a warm-up fire in the firebox before the main load goes in. It also needs a tee with a clean-out cap at the base, which is one more part and one more thing to service.
So: if you have a genuine choice between the two routes, go up through the ceiling. The wall exit is a workaround, not an upgrade. If the building has already made the decision for you, the wall kits do the job perfectly well — just budget for the extra parts and expect to pay a little more attention to how you start a fire in January.
Single wall or double wall
This is a clearance decision more than a quality one. Single wall connector pipe has to stay 18" from anything combustible. Double wall pipe, with its insulating air gap, drops that to 6".
Twelve inches sounds trivial until you measure the room. If your stove is going into a corner or an alcove, that difference is frequently the only thing standing between a legal installation and building a shielded wall. If the flue has open air around it on all sides, single wall costs $70 less and radiates a little more heat into the room, because the pipe itself is part of the heater.
There is a middle option. The SP00390 heat shield kit at $99 clips onto a single wall to-the-ceiling run and reduces its clearance requirement — useful if you have already bought single wall pipe and then discovered the wall is closer than you thought.
For the full comparison, including how connector pipe differs from chimney pipe and what each part is called, see our wood stove chimney and stovepipe guide.
What the kit does not include
Here is the part most product pages skip. A connector pipe kit gets you to the wall or ceiling and stops. To finish the job you also need:
| Part | What it does | Where to get it |
|---|---|---|
| Class A insulated chimney | The actual chimney, from the wall or ceiling penetration to above the roofline | Through-the-ceiling kit ($643.99), through-the-wall kit ($801) or Class A pipe from $65 |
| Support box or wall thimble | The listed assembly that carries the chimney through the building | Ceiling support box ($158) or wall thimble ($87) |
| Flashing and storm collar | Weatherproofs the roof penetration | Roof flashing ($188) and storm collar ($27.99) |
| Tee with clean-out cap | Base of an exterior chimney run — wall exits only | VOD0110 or SP00110 |
| Wall trim collar | Closes the gap where pipe meets wall | VOD0150, SP00150 or SP00170 |
| Hearth pad | Required floor protection under and in front of the stove | Hearth pads |
The through-the-ceiling Class A kit includes the ceiling support box, roof flashing, storm collar and chimney cap, with 3, 6 or 9 ft of chimney pipe as an option. The through-the-wall Class A kit includes the wall thimble, tee, wall support and cap; add Class A pipe for the run up the outside of the house. Everything else, from extra pipe sections to the chimney cap, is in our Class A chimney collection, with No Sales Tax. The chimney brand does not need to match your connector pipe as long as both are listed for the application.
Build your parts list: our free chimney kit builder works out the Class A chimney and stove pipe for your ceiling height and roof pitch, prices every part, and adds the whole kit to your cart. No Sales Tax in any state.
One exception worth knowing: if you are connecting into an existing masonry chimney rather than building a new Class A run, you do not need any of the top three rows. You need the VOD0230 masonry adapter and, in nearly every case, a stainless chimney liner sized to the stove.
Measuring before you order
Two measurements decide whether a kit fits without extra parts.
- Flue collar to ceiling (or to the wall, for a horizontal exit). Measure from the top of the stove's flue collar to the finished surface. The to-the-ceiling kits are built around a telescoping section, so there is adjustment range — but an unusually high ceiling will need an extra length of pipe.
- Clearance from the pipe centreline to the nearest combustible. This is what picks single wall against double wall. Measure to framing, trim and furniture, not just to the drywall.
If a corner install turns out to be tight even with double wall pipe, a certified wall heat shield reduces the stove's own clearance requirement and is often cheaper than moving the stove. Our wall heat shield guide covers how much you actually gain.
Pipe kit FAQs
Does a wood stove pipe kit include the chimney?
No. Every kit covers connector pipe inside the room only. Class A insulated chimney, the support box or thimble, flashing and storm collar are separate purchases. We carry all of them in our Class A chimney collection, or as complete through-the-ceiling and through-the-wall Class A kits.
What size wood stove pipe kit do I need?
Six inch for every Drolet and Englander wood stove we sell. Always match the kit to the stove's flue collar rather than to the chimney — changing connector diameter alters how the appliance drafts and voids most certifications.
Can single wall stove pipe pass through a wall or ceiling?
No, and neither can double wall. Connector pipe of either type stops at the surface. The penetration itself has to be made with Class A chimney through a listed support box or thimble.
Is through-the-wall harder than through-the-roof?
It is more parts and more money, and it drafts less readily in cold weather because the chimney runs outside. Its advantage is that it avoids cutting through a finished ceiling and roof. Most people choose it because the vertical route is blocked, not because it is simpler.
Can I use a pipe kit with an existing masonry chimney?
Yes, with a masonry adapter and almost always a stainless liner sized to the stove. A modern stove vented into an unlined, oversized masonry flue will draft poorly and build creosote quickly.
Do you charge sales tax on stove pipe kits?
No. StoveSource charges no sales tax in any state, and orders over $300 ship free to the lower 48.
Related guides
- Wood Stove Chimney & Stovepipe: What You Need and How It Goes Together
- Wood Stove Flue Guide: Sizing, Flue Pipe and When to Reline
- Installing a Wood Stove: What the Job Actually Involves
- Wood Stove Wall Heat Shields: How to Fit a Stove in a Tight Space
Browse all wood stove pipe kits, or the full range of connector pipe and fittings — No Sales Tax in any state, free shipping on orders over $300. Not sure which route your house allows? Email info@stovesource.com or text 1-888-866-8206 with your stove model and where it is going.
Clearance figures are the manufacturer's published values for 6" single wall and double wall connector pipe. Your appliance's installation manual and your local building code always override a general guide, including this one. Class A chimney must be installed to its own manufacturer's instructions.