Frequently Asked Questions

Everything you need to know about choosing, buying, installing, and living with a wood stove or pellet stove.

Choosing the Right Stove

Wood stoves burn split cordwood and operate entirely without electricity. You load the firebox manually, light the fire, and adjust airflow using dampers. They're the most traditional and off-grid-capable option — if the power goes out, a wood stove keeps burning. Many buyers prefer the ambiance and the self-sufficiency of wood heat.

Pellet stoves burn compressed wood pellets that are fed automatically from a hopper into the burn pot. A built-in auger controls the feed rate, and a blower distributes heat. Because the fuel delivery is automated, pellet stoves are generally more convenient and easier to operate — you fill the hopper once a day or less, set a thermostat, and walk away. However, they require electricity to run. In a power outage, a pellet stove won't function unless you have a battery backup.

Both produce comparable heat output. The right choice usually comes down to lifestyle: do you want the hands-on experience of tending a wood fire, or do you prefer the set-it-and-forget-it convenience of a pellet stove?

Stove sizing is based on the area you want to heat, but square footage alone doesn't tell the whole story. Four factors matter:

1. Square footage — This is the starting point. A stove rated for 1,500 sq ft will struggle in a 2,500 sq ft open floor plan. Match the stove's BTU output to your square footage.

2. Ceiling height — Standard ratings assume 8-foot ceilings. If your ceilings are 10 or 12 feet, the volume of air in the room is significantly larger, and you'll need more BTUs to heat it effectively.

3. Insulation quality — An older home with minimal insulation loses heat much faster than a newer, well-insulated home. If your house is drafty or poorly insulated, size up.

4. Climate zone — A home in Maine needs more heating capacity than the same square footage in Virginia. If you're in a cold climate (USDA zones 5 and below), err on the larger side.

Floor plan also matters. Open floor plans with good air circulation heat more efficiently than segmented layouts with lots of doors and hallways.

If you're not sure, call us. We'll ask a few questions about your home and recommend a specific model.

A freestanding stove stands independently on a hearth pad or non-combustible floor surface. It connects to a flue pipe that runs up through the ceiling or out through an exterior wall. Freestanding stoves can be placed in almost any room with the appropriate clearances and a proper chimney installation.

A fireplace insert is designed to fit inside an existing masonry or factory-built fireplace opening. If you already have a fireplace that you don't use — or that's inefficient — an insert transforms it into a high-efficiency heating appliance. The insert slides into the firebox, and a liner runs from the unit up through the existing chimney flue.

Inserts are a good choice if you want to upgrade an existing fireplace without a full renovation. Freestanding stoves are more flexible in placement and work well in homes without an existing fireplace.

That depends on the size of your home and the output of the stove. The Englander 25-CBPAH, the pellet stove we carry, heats 500 to 2,200 sq ft, which covers most single-family homes. In a smaller or well-insulated home, a single pellet stove in a central location can effectively heat the entire space.

In larger or multi-story homes, a single stove may heat the main living area well but leave bedrooms or remote areas cooler. Some buyers use a pellet stove as a primary heat source supplemented by their existing HVAC system; others use it as a zone heater for the area where they spend the most time.

If whole-home heating is your goal, tell us your square footage, number of stories, and how your home is laid out. We can tell you whether the 25-CBPAH is the right fit or whether a different approach makes more sense.

EPA 2020 certification refers to the emissions standard that took effect on May 15, 2020, under the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's New Source Performance Standards for residential wood heaters. Certified stoves must emit no more than 2.0 grams of particulate matter per hour — a significant improvement over older, uncertified stoves, which could emit 15 to 40 grams per hour.

It matters for several reasons. First, many states and local air quality districts require EPA 2020-certified stoves for any new installation. If you install an uncertified stove, you may not be able to sell your home or could face fines. Second, cleaner combustion means more heat from the same amount of wood — certified stoves are simply more efficient. Third, if you're in an area with air quality restrictions, EPA-certified stoves are often exempt from burn bans that apply to older stoves.

All Drolet stoves we carry are EPA 2020 certified.

Both technologies achieve low emissions and high efficiency, but they do it differently.

Catalytic stoves use a ceramic honeycomb combustor coated with a catalyst (usually platinum or palladium). Smoke gases pass through the combustor and ignite at a lower temperature than they would otherwise, producing more heat and fewer emissions. Catalytic stoves tend to produce longer, more even burn times and are particularly efficient during long overnight burns. The trade-off is maintenance: the catalyst must be inspected annually and replaced every 3 to 6 seasons depending on use.

Non-catalytic stoves use a different design — typically a heavily insulated firebox with a secondary air system that injects preheated air into the upper firebox to reburn combustion gases before they exit. They're simpler to operate with fewer maintenance requirements and are generally more forgiving of variable wood moisture content.

For most buyers, non-catalytic stoves are the practical choice. They're easier to live with day-to-day. Catalytic stoves are worth considering if you're doing long, low-temperature burns and want to maximize burn time from each load of wood.

All Drolet stoves we carry are non-catalytic.

Buying Online — Shipping and Delivery

Stoves ship via LTL freight (less-than-truckload), not standard parcel carriers like UPS or FedEx. Here's what the process typically looks like:

1. Order placed — We process your order and notify the manufacturer's warehouse, usually within 1 business day.

2. Ships from warehouse — The stove ships directly from the manufacturer's US distribution center. Transit time is typically 5 to 10 business days depending on your location.

3. Freight carrier contacts you — The LTL carrier will call or email you to schedule a delivery appointment. You'll need to be available during the delivery window.

4. Liftgate delivery — The truck arrives with a hydraulic liftgate that lowers the pallet to the ground. The driver is not required to bring the stove inside your home or garage — delivery is to your driveway or property line.

5. You inspect and sign — Before the driver leaves, inspect the packaging for damage. If you see damage, note it on the delivery receipt before signing (see next question for what to do if there's a problem).

Shipping is free to any continental US address on orders over $250.

Curbside delivery means the freight carrier will deliver the pallet to your driveway or the nearest accessible point on your property. The driver is not obligated to carry the stove into your garage, onto your porch, or into your home.

Stoves typically weigh between 150 and 350 pounds. You'll want to have help available on delivery day to move it from the driveway to its final location. A hand truck or appliance dolly is useful. Some customers arrange for their installer to be present on delivery day so the stove can go straight into position.

If you need inside delivery or white-glove placement, some carriers offer this as a paid add-on service. Contact us before placing your order and we can look into options for your area.

First, do not refuse delivery unless the damage is so severe that the product is clearly unusable. A refused shipment creates more complications than it solves.

Instead: before signing the delivery receipt, inspect the exterior packaging for any signs of impact, crushing, or puncture. If you see damage, write "damaged" on the delivery receipt — this is critical. Your ability to file a freight claim depends on noting the damage at time of delivery.

Once the driver leaves, open the packaging and inspect the unit itself. If there is product damage, photograph everything thoroughly and contact us within 5 business days of delivery. We will file a freight claim on your behalf and coordinate a replacement or resolution.

Do not attempt to install a damaged stove before contacting us. Installation of a damaged unit may complicate the claim.

No. We don't charge sales tax at checkout, in any state.

For a typical stove purchase in the $1,000 to $2,500 range, the sales tax savings can be $75 to $150 or more depending on your state's rate. This is one of the advantages of buying from a small online retailer rather than a local dealer or big-box store.

Yes. If you find the identical product (same brand, same model number, same configuration) for a lower price at another authorized dealer, we'll match it.

To request a price match, contact us before or within 7 days of purchase with the competitor's price and a link to the listing. The competitor must be an authorized dealer — we don't match unauthorized resellers, marketplace sellers, or obviously incorrect pricing errors.

If you've already purchased and find a lower price within 7 days, we'll refund the difference.

Eligible stove and insert returns within 30 days are subject to a $300 return-freight charge plus a 15% restocking fee, deducted from your refund. Units that have been fired or installed cannot be returned.

We accept all major credit cards — Visa, Mastercard, American Express, and Discover — as well as Apple Pay and Google Pay through our secure checkout.

For financing, our checkout includes options through Shopify's buy-now-pay-later partners (availability may vary). If you'd like to pay over time, look for the financing option at checkout or contact us and we'll point you in the right direction.

All transactions are processed through PCI-DSS compliant payment processing with 256-bit SSL encryption.

Installation

In most jurisdictions, yes. A permit is typically required for any new heating appliance installation that involves a flue or chimney penetration through the structure. Permit requirements vary by state, county, and municipality.

We recommend contacting your local building department before purchasing to confirm what's required in your area. In most cases, the permit process is straightforward — you submit the stove specs and installation plan, pay a small fee, and schedule an inspection after the installation is complete.

Failing to pull a permit can create problems when you sell your home, may void your homeowner's insurance coverage, and could create liability issues if something goes wrong.

Many homeowners successfully install their own stoves, particularly freestanding wood stoves in situations where the chimney or flue path is straightforward. The installation itself — connecting the stove to the flue pipe, sealing joints, and ensuring clearances — is within the capability of a handy homeowner.

That said, there are situations where we strongly recommend hiring a certified chimney professional (CSIA-certified) or licensed installer:

- Fireplace inserts, which require properly lining the existing chimney flue
- Any installation involving a new masonry or factory-built chimney
- Situations with complex flue routing through attic or roof spaces
- If your local jurisdiction requires installation by a licensed contractor

Even if you're doing the installation yourself, having a certified professional inspect the completed installation is good practice and often required for permit sign-off.

Yes, in almost all cases. When installing a wood stove insert into an existing fireplace, a stainless steel chimney liner must be run from the appliance collar up through the existing flue to the top of the chimney. This is required by NFPA 211, the standard for chimneys and fireplaces, and by most local building codes.

The liner ensures that combustion gases vent properly, prevents creosote from accumulating in the old masonry flue, and keeps the draft sizing matched to the appliance.

For pellet stove inserts, a smaller diameter flexible liner is used — typically 3 or 4 inches, compared to 6 inches for most wood insert liners. Pellet stove inserts can also be vented horizontally through the wall in some configurations.

When budgeting for an insert installation, factor in the liner cost. Liner kits typically run $300 to $600 depending on the flue height and diameter.

If your stove is being installed on a combustible floor surface — wood, laminate, carpet, vinyl — yes, a hearth pad is required. The hearth pad protects the floor from radiant heat and provides an ember-catching surface in front of the door.

The size requirements for hearth pads are specified in the stove's installation manual and follow NFPA 211 guidelines. Typically, the pad must extend at least 16 inches in front of the door and 8 inches to each side. Some stoves have larger requirements depending on their leg height and radiant heat output.

If your stove will be installed on a concrete slab, tile, or other non-combustible surface, a hearth pad may not be required — but confirm this with your stove's installation manual and local inspector.

Hearth pads are available in a range of styles from basic to decorative. They're sold separately and are not included with the stove.

Pellet stoves have different venting requirements than wood stoves. They use a small-diameter exhaust pipe — typically 3 or 4 inches — and can be vented horizontally through an exterior wall without a full vertical chimney. This makes pellet stove installation significantly more flexible and often less expensive than wood stove installation.

The vent pipe for pellet stoves is a specialized double-wall, room-sealed type — not standard single-wall stove pipe. The inner wall carries exhaust; the outer wall can carry combustion air in directly vented configurations. Both Drolet and Englander specify approved vent pipe types in their installation manuals — do not use standard B-vent or single-wall pipe.

If you want to vent vertically through a roof rather than through a wall, that's also possible with the appropriate vent kit. Horizontal runs should slope slightly downward toward the exterior to allow any condensate to drain out.

Clearances are the minimum distances that must be maintained between the stove and combustible materials — walls, furniture, curtains, wood floors, etc. These distances are specified in the stove's installation manual and must be followed exactly.

For most freestanding wood stoves, clearances to unprotected combustible walls are typically 36 inches to the sides and rear. These can often be reduced with an approved heat shield — typically to 12 to 18 inches depending on the shield construction.

Pellet stoves generally have smaller clearance requirements because they run cooler on exterior surfaces — often 6 to 12 inches to the sides and rear.

Always refer to the specific clearances in your stove's installation manual, as requirements vary by model. Never rely on general rules when actual clearances are printed in the manual.

Clearances also apply to the vent pipe, not just the stove body. Single-wall black stove pipe requires 18 inches of clearance to combustibles; double-wall pipe allows for reduced clearances.

Operation and Maintenance

New wood stoves require a break-in period before you run them at full output. The purpose is to cure the paint and allow the cast iron or steel to expand and contract gradually, preventing warping and ensuring gaskets seat properly.

The standard break-in process involves three to five small, progressively larger fires:

- First fire: small amount of kindling only, burned for 20 to 30 minutes
- Second fire: slightly larger, add a few small splits
- Third fire: medium-sized fire using dry wood
- Fourth and fifth fires: gradually increase to full load

During the break-in process, you'll likely smell an odor from the curing paint. This is normal. Open windows and ventilate the space during the first few burns. The smell dissipates after the initial cure.

Do not run the stove at full output until after the break-in is complete. Refer to your stove's specific installation manual for the manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure.

Burn seasoned hardwood with a moisture content of 20% or less. This is the most important factor in efficient, clean wood stove operation.

Seasoned wood has been split and dried for at least 6 to 12 months (ideally longer). It burns hotter, produces less smoke, and generates far less creosote than green or wet wood. You can test moisture with an inexpensive wood moisture meter — aim for 15 to 20%.

Hardwoods — oak, maple, ash, hickory, cherry — have higher energy density than softwoods and produce longer-lasting burns. Softwoods like pine burn faster and are fine for kindling or shoulder-season fires, but they're not ideal for long overnight burns.

Never burn:
- Green or freshly cut wood (too wet)
- Treated, painted, or stained lumber (toxic fumes)
- Plywood or particle board (toxic adhesives)
- Trash, cardboard, or garbage
- Coal in a stove not rated for it

Burning wet or improper wood is the leading cause of chimney fires and is likely to void your warranty.

Wood consumption varies significantly based on your climate, your home's insulation, and how much you rely on the stove for heat. A rough guideline:

- Supplemental heat source in a mild climate: 1 to 2 cords per season
- Primary heat source in a moderate climate: 3 to 4 cords per season
- Primary heat source in a cold climate (zones 5-7): 5 to 7 cords per season

A cord of wood is a stacked pile measuring 4 feet × 4 feet × 8 feet (128 cubic feet). Face cords or rick cords are partial measures — make sure you know what you're buying when you order firewood.

If you're new to wood heat, start with more wood than you think you'll need. Running out in January is worse than having leftover wood in the spring.

Operating a pellet stove is simpler than a wood stove. Here's the basic process:

1. Fill the hopper — The Englander 25-CBPAH has a 120 lb hopper that runs up to 75 hours on a single fill, so most owners load it every few days. Use premium hardwood pellets that meet PFI (Pellet Fuels Institute) standards.

2. Set the thermostat — Set your desired temperature and the stove manages fuel feed and airflow automatically.

3. Start the stove — The igniter automatically starts the fire. Wait a few minutes for the pellets to ignite and the flame to establish.

4. Monitor the burn pot — Occasionally check that the burn pot is clear of clinkers (hardened ash deposits). Clinkers can develop with certain pellet brands and affect combustion quality.

5. Clean regularly — See the maintenance question below for cleaning intervals.

Pellet stoves require a power source. Check your stove's manual for its electrical requirements.

Wood stove maintenance happens at three intervals:

Daily/After each fire: Remove ash from the firebox when the accumulation is more than an inch or two deep. Leave a thin bed of ash — it actually helps the next fire start and insulates the grate. Inspect the door gasket for wear.

Weekly during heating season: Check the door glass for buildup (cloudy glass indicates incomplete combustion — check your wood moisture). Inspect the damper for smooth operation.

Annually (before each heating season): Have a certified chimney sweep inspect and clean the flue. Creosote buildup is a fire hazard and must be removed before each heating season. Inspect the door gasket — replace if you can pull a dollar bill through the closed door without resistance. Check the firebox liner for cracks. Inspect all stovepipe connections.

Pellet stoves require more frequent cleaning than wood stoves because of the way the fuel delivery system works.

Every 1 to 3 days during use: Empty and scrape the burn pot. Clinkers in the burn pot are the most common cause of pellet stove problems. This takes about 2 minutes.

Weekly: Remove ash from the ash pan and the area beneath the burn pot. Check the glass for buildup.

Monthly: Clean the heat exchange tubes (follow your stove's manual for access). Buildup in the tubes reduces heat output.

Annually: Perform a full deep cleaning — disassemble and clean all burn and exhaust pathways. Inspect all gaskets, the exhaust fan, and the auger motor for wear. This is also a good time to have a technician inspect the electrical components. Your stove's manual includes a detailed annual maintenance checklist.

No. Pellet stoves require electricity to operate the auger, igniter, and blower. If you lose power, the stove will shut down.

If you live in an area with frequent power outages and want heating reliability during those periods, a wood stove is a better choice — it operates entirely without electricity.

If you prefer the convenience of a pellet stove but want power outage backup, a battery backup system or small generator can keep it running during outages. Check your stove's manual for its power draw when sizing a battery or inverter. Contact us if you want recommendations on backup power options.

Cost, Savings, and Financing

Operating costs vary by region, fuel prices, and how heavily you rely on the stove. Rough estimates for a full heating season as a primary heat source:

Wood stove: 3 to 5 cords of firewood at $200 to $300 per cord (varies significantly by region) = $600 to $1,500 per season. If you cut your own wood, the cost drops substantially.

Pellet stove: 2 to 4 tons of pellets at $250 to $400 per ton = $500 to $1,600 per season. Pellet prices are more consistent across regions than firewood prices.

Both are generally less expensive than heating with oil, propane, or electric resistance heat. The exact savings depend on your local fuel costs and current utility rates. We recommend comparing against your current heating bill to estimate the payback period on a stove investment.

No. The 25C Biomass Stove Tax Credit provided a 30% federal tax credit (up to $2,000 per year) for qualifying biomass stoves meeting the 75% efficiency threshold. It expired on December 31, 2025.

There is no federal tax credit for a wood or pellet stove installed in 2026. Tax rules change, so confirm current guidance with a tax professional or at IRS.gov before you file.

Regardless of federal credits, some states offer their own incentives for efficient wood-burning appliances. Check your state energy office website for current programs.

A quality wood stove, properly maintained, can last 20 to 30 years or more. Cast iron construction is extremely durable, and replacement parts (door gaskets, glass, grates) are available for most models for many years after manufacture. Drolet's limited lifetime warranty on the firebox reflects the manufacturer's confidence in the longevity of their construction.

Pellet stoves have more moving parts — the auger, igniter, blower, and control board — and typically have a lifespan of 10 to 20 years depending on use, maintenance, and pellet quality. Keeping up with regular cleaning significantly extends pellet stove life. Replacement parts are available through the manufacturer.

For both types, lifespan is heavily influenced by maintenance habits. A well-maintained stove lasts far longer than one that's neglected.

About Buying From Us

Local dealers have real advantages — they let you see the stove in person, and some offer local installation services. We're not here to talk you out of using one if that's the right choice for you.

Here's where we typically come out ahead:

Price: Operating online without showroom overhead lets us price competitively — and our Price Match Guarantee backs it up.

No sales tax: We don't charge sales tax at checkout. Most buyers save $75 to $150 versus purchasing locally.

Free shipping: Every stove ships free to the lower 48 states. Local dealers often charge delivery fees for large items.

Product knowledge: We specialize in stoves. Our staff knows these products in detail. Many big-box retailers and general home goods stores carry a few stove models with staff who have limited product knowledge.

Availability: Local dealers may not carry the specific model you want. We maintain dealer relationships that allow us to access a broader selection.

If you're on the fence, call us. We'll tell you honestly whether a local dealer makes more sense for your situation.

Yes — that's exactly what we're here for.

The best way to get a recommendation is to call us at 1-888-914-0022, Monday through Friday, 7am–11pm EST. Tell us about your home — square footage, how it's heated now, what you're trying to accomplish — and we'll recommend a specific model.

We don't work on commission. We're not trying to upsell you to a bigger or more expensive stove. If the answer is that you need a smaller model than you planned, or that a pellet stove makes more sense than a wood stove for your situation, we'll tell you that.

You can also email us at info@stovesource.com and we'll respond within one business day.

We act as your first point of contact for any post-purchase issues — warranty claims, shipping damage, missing parts, or questions that come up during installation.

For warranty issues: Contact us before contacting the manufacturer. We have direct relationships with Drolet and Englander and can often resolve issues faster by working through those channels than a customer going direct.

For freight damage: Contact us within 5 business days of delivery. We'll file the freight claim and manage the process. If you waited to open the packaging and find damage, document everything with photographs and contact us immediately — the sooner, the better.

For installation questions: Call us. We've been through these installations and can answer most questions in a few minutes. If your question requires a certified professional, we'll tell you that too.

Call us Mon–Fri 7am–11pm EST.